Workshop Shed Articles
- Power Sander Tips for the Workshop Shed
- Shop Tools For Fixing Stuff
- Why You Need a Wooden Storage Shed
- The Workshop Shed Workbench: Tips on Building Your Own
- Building a Shed? Wood Vs Metal Storage Shed
- Reminders before Building Your Wooden Storage Shed
- The Cedar Storage Shed – But Why Cedar?
- More Articles for the Workshop Shed
KCDM Network
Specialty Tools in The Workshop Shed
Many carpentry projects can require a tool that you do not own and you will need to decide whether it is worth the investment to buy it. Many of these tools can be quite expensive to purchase and hard to justify when you may only need the use of them occasionally. A good option in a case like this is to consider renting the needed tool.
Renting a tool provides the opportunity to use the tool before buying it and also gives you access to tools you would never consider buying such as a jackhammer that may make a specific project easier. You can also see a demonstration of how a tool is used which can save you time and avoid unsafe or improper use. Many tools can be rented by the hour. To minimize rental costs it is recommended that you prepare your work area before renting the tool.
Some of the specialty tools that you may want to rent are listed below.
Hammer Drill – for boring in concrete and masonry. The hammer drill combines impact action with rotary motion. The drill should be lubricated to keep down the dust and keep the bit from overheating. When the motor of the hammer drill is set for rotary action only, it can be used as a conventional drill.
Pneumatic Nailer – this tool uses compressed air to drive nails or staples into wood making it a very efficient carpentry tool. There are models designed for framing and others for finish work. You can control a nailer with one hand while the other hand is freed up to hold the stock in position.
Reciprocating Saw – this saw is used for making rough cuts in walls and floors where a circular saw would be difficult to use. A reciprocating saw can also be used to cut metals like iron plumbing pipe or lag bolts. Cordless reciprocating saws are also available and have enough power to handle many smaller jobs.
Screwgun –are used when you have a large number of screws to drive but the main purpose of a screwgun is to drive screws into wallboard without tearing the paper facing. The screwguns sensitive clutch disengages once the screw has dimpled the wallboards surface which helps you hang wallboard faster, cleaner and more accurately.
Power-actuated Nailer – this type of nailer drives hardened steel nails through studs into concrete. A trigger activated nail gun is easiest to use but there is a plunger type available which is activated when struck with a hammer. Because these tools are loud and powerful it is recommended that hearing protection and eye protection be used any time you use them.
The need for specialty tools does not need to be an expensive proposition when they are available from your local tool rental store.
Posted in Uncategorized
Leave a comment
Using A Level:Tips For the Work Shop Shed
A level in the workshop shed is an absolute necessity. In fact every workshop should have at least two levels. They are essential when you build a wall to check for plumb (perfectly vertical) and when building steps or bookshelves and countertops that need to be level. If you are putting a roof on a shed or a house you can check for the proper angle or pitch.
A 2-ft. carpenter’s level is needed to check studs, joists, and other types of long construction surfaces. A smaller 9” to 10” torpedo level is perfect for checking smaller workpieces and can be easily carried in a tool belt. If it is a framing project that is being done then a carpenter’s 4-ft level is very useful and can be purchased in a carrying case for protection.
Different from some other types of carpentry tools a level is a finely tuned instrument that can be easily broken and should not be tossed into a toolbox or a bucket. A level should be tested on a level surface before purchasing to make sure the vials are accurate. The best way to check a level is to hold it against a flat even surface, mark the location and read the bubble gauge carefully. The level should be pivoted 180 degrees and reread and then flipped over and read from the other side. The bubble should read the same each time and if it doesn’t use the calibrating screws to adjust or buy a new level.
Levels for the most part contain more than one bubble gauge (which are vials with a single small air bubble suspended in fluid) and indicate the angle of the level in space at any given time. When the level is tilted the bubble shifts its position inside the vial indicating the change. This type of level is known as a spirit level because the fluid in the vial is alcohol. Instead of using a bubble gauge an electronic level that has a digital readout can also be obtained.
The majority of carpentry levels have three gauges, one of which checks horizontal orientation or level one for vertical orientation or plumb and one for 45 degree angles. To improve readability some levels will have pairs of gauges with opposing curves.
A quality carpenter’s level should contain screw-in or snap-in vial cases that are easily replaced if they become damaged. The level should also have a glass lens that is heavy enough to protect each vial or set of vials and for additional protection rubber end caps that will absorb shock.
Posted in Uncategorized
1 Comment




